Tuesday, June 21, 2011

First Wave



Remember when you caught your first wave? I don't mean when you bounced on your belly in the whitewater and stood up for a second before falling. I mean the first time you caught a wave cleanly where you were in the perfect spot so that you could drop in down the face of the wave, make a bottom turn and go down the line with a few carving turns and cut backs until the wave fizzled out. If you don't remember your first wave, well, that's too bad. I do, and I can still remember the spot, the weather and surf conditions, who I was surfing with and I can play it back like a movie in my mind whenever I want. I had another one of those first wave experiences a few months ago when I caught my first SUP wave. The conditions were not epic: waist high and mushy but perfect all the same. I never forget first waves.

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